Overdosing on the Beatles: 48 Hours in Liverpool
Can you really experience a city in a single weekend? Travltalk’s 48 Hours In… features Travltalkers who share their whirlwind adventures around the globe (and closer to home) – when there’s barely enough time and so much to do. In today’s photo-diary, Thom Finnerty takes you through some of the best that Liverpool has to offer.
As a self-proclaimed Beatles fanboy, Liverpool was always on the list of cities to visit during our time in the UK – and it delivered. From all the Fab Four festivities you could ask for, through to great coffee and stunning restaurants, Liverpool is truly a cultural hub of the north, and well worth a 48-hour visit. Even – dare I say it – for those of you who prefer the Stones.
Day 1
Taking the train from London Euston after work on the Friday, we reached Liverpool late. Wading through the seas of ‘scouse brows’ and football jumpers, we eventually found our accommodation just outside the city centre and settled in for the night.
Bright and early the next morning, we were greeted by Joe – our Mad Day Out Beatles taxi tour guide – and set off on the Fab Four pilgrimage I had been waiting for. Heading south of the city, we quickly made our way to Ringo’s childhood home, and this pub – The Empress – where his mother worked while living just around the corner.
Never a dull moment was had with Joe – spinning stories of the rest of the band’s teenage antics as we drove through Liverpool’s leafy ‘burbs.
I never thought I’d say it, but I teared up on Penny Lane. It may have been Joe’s well-timed hit of the play button on the taxi stereo as we drove past the barber showing photographs, the bus shelter in the middle of the roundabout, and the perfect spot for ‘four of fish and finger pies’ – McCartney echoing through the backseat.
I was sold on our weekend in Liverpool at that moment. But our Beatles hot spot hit list didn’t end there. From Penny Lane, we found ourselves at Strawberry Fields, Mendips, the grave of Eleanor Rigby, the hall where the Lennon-McCartney courtship began, and the childhood home of Paul McCartney – all accompanied by Joe’s superb anecdotes and not-so-subtle quizzing. For Beatles fans, this tour is a must-do. Just try to be in the city when the National Trust tours of the childhood homes are running (unlike this fool on the hill).
At the conclusion of the tour, Joe dropped us off at Royal Albert Dock, the home of Tate Liverpool, the International Slavery Museum, and – you guessed it – The Beatles Story. At this point, we were ready for something not connected to Liverpool’s favourite boys and took in the sights of the dock, including the Liverpool Mountain. This ten-metre-high sculpture from Ugo Rondinone is inspired by the art of meditative rock balancing and will stand just outside the Tate Liverpool until October 2020. The dock is a great reimagination of what was the hub of England’s domination of global trade in the 19th century.
Just north of the docks proudly stands the Museum of Liverpool in all its brutalist glory. Juxtaposed with the grand Royal Liver Building, this area of the waterfront beautifully showcases the changing face of modern Liverpool set against the grandeur of the ‘Three Graces’. The Museum itself tells a brief and fascinating history of Liverpool from the city’s urban, cultural and technological evolution – including its role in the transatlantic slave trade and the surprising (and at moments controversial) connection with China.
Our highlight was the ‘Double Fantasy’ exhibition which walks through the turbid and beautiful relationship of John Lennon and Yoko Ono (hence ‘Imagine Peace’ donning the front window of the building). The exhibition houses incredible highlights from their life together and offered us a chance to really dive into their creative chemistry and ongoing work long after John’s untimely death.
We finally overdosed on Beatles with a quick visit to the 8ft tall, 1.2 tonne bronze statue of the band standing at Pier Head. A mecca for tourists, we fought to the front of the throng for our chance to pose with the boys and gaze longing into their cold, metallic eyes. Heading into the Ropewalks district that evening, we were greeted by surprise fireworks over the mammoth Chinese Arch, sipped great cocktails at Petit Café Du Coin, and finished the night at the remarkable Wreckfish Bistro on Slater Street – the apparent hub of alternative nightlife in Liverpool.
Day 2
A lazy morning led to an easy stroll into Chinatown for what was set to be the most fabulous Chinese New Year celebrations you could hope for within the UK. Streets were filled with vendors selling their hit ‘wiggly worms’ and throwdowns (only £1 – who could resist), with kids and parents alike delighting in the colour, noise and vibrancy accompanying the parade and incredible gamut of performers lining Great George Street.
An amazing golden dragon led the crowd through the streets, escorted by this year’s star – the pig. As firemen set up the ‘cracker cage’, costumed Chinese lions scaled the walls of shops and danced to the vigorous drumming that echoed through the crowd. Soon enough, the air filled with smoke and sparks as firecrackers erupted, scaring away evil spirits from shopfronts; as kids joined in with their own throwdowns – the footpath soon filling with the red debris of a successful welcoming of the new year.
Escaping the beautiful chaos of Chinatown, we found ourselves on Bold Street heading towards the main city centre. This strip is now home to some fantastic vintage stores, street art, record stores, cafes and casual restaurants. This is a far cry from its humble beginnings as a ‘ropewalk’ – where locally manufactured rope was measured from the top of the street to the bottom – which happened to be the standard length needed for sailing ships. Finding ourselves in the city centre, we took in the mammoth Liverpool ONE – the city’s retail hub – where each building was designed by a different architect, giving the space a distinctly modern and captivating vibe – if not just a beautiful walk in the sunshine.
Heading out of the city centre along Duke Street, we made our way up to the colossal Liverpool Cathedral. Constructed over 74 years based on the design of Giles Gilbert Scott (who also designed the iconic London telephone box), this Cathedral is said to be the longest in the world. Stepping inside, you would believe it. The awe inspiring height and depth of the space is captivating – with enormous stained glass windows throughout. Tracey Emin’s simple, yet captivating neon sculpture ‘For You’ sits at the western end of the Cathedral, standing in contrast with the gothic features throughout. Definitely take a look at the incredible marble Baptistery, which definitely reminded me of entering the Chamber of Secrets through Moaning Myrtle’s bathroom. Don’t whisper anything in Parseltongue whilst you’re there, just in case.
We couldn’t give up the chance to head to the rooftop of the highest Cathedral in the UK. Thankfully most the leg work was done for us by a series of lifts that took us up to the bell chamber, where we caught a glimpse of Great George and friends – the world’s highest and heaviest peal of bells. If heavy bells don’t do it for you (I don’t blame you), the view from the 152m high rooftop is pretty spectacular. On a clear day you’re meant to be able to see the Blackpool tower. But even without being able to see that far, the skyline of Liverpool is still an impressive one. From Radio City Tower to the wind turbines far out to sea, this is a city that has seen immense change since the 19th century and is richer as a result. As a cultural melting pot and a previous European Capital of Culture, Liverpool definitely surprised us. Even without the Beatles or a love of football, the city is a great place for a weekend out of London and comes highly recommended from this Australian.
Thom, despite being Travltalk's Director of Photography, is an Australian doctor travelling around the traps with his gorgeous wife and taking too many photos.
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